New rules affecting gel manicures came into force in the UK over the weekend, sparking confusion among salon-goers about whether their go-to treatment is about to disappear. The reality, however, is far narrower than the headlines suggest.
What’s Actually Being Banned
Despite the dramatic nickname, the change targets a single ingredient: trimethylbenzoyl diphenylphosphine oxide, known as TPO. It’s a “photoinitiator” — the chemical that reacts under UV light to cure gel polish, giving manicures their glossy, long-lasting finish.
The Timeline
TPO has already been banned in the European Union since September 2025. The UK is following at a slower pace: as of Saturday, manufacturers can no longer sell new products containing the chemical. But there’s no need to panic about your next appointment — salons can continue using existing stock until it runs out, with an off-the-shelf sell-through deadline set for Valentine’s Day next year. In practice, that means gel manicures will carry on largely as normal for months to come.
The ban applies across England, Wales and Scotland, mirroring the EU’s rules. TPO remains legal in the US, Australia and parts of Asia.
Why TPO Was Banned
The move follows a new safety classification after animal studies linked high levels of TPO exposure to fertility and reproductive problems. But industry experts stress the risk to nail clients is minimal. Caroline Rainsford of the Cosmetic, Toiletry and Perfumery Association explained that the classification reflects a “worst case” exposure scenario, and that the amount of TPO used in nail products is vastly lower than levels linked to any harm — with the added protection that it’s applied to the nail rather than the skin.
According to the CTPA, the substance’s classification meant it had to meet strict conditions to remain legal as a cosmetic ingredient, including proof of no viable alternatives. Since TPO-free options already exist, the industry couldn’t clear that bar.
What Replaces It
TPO-free gels are already widely used across the industry, though shoppers are advised that not all alternatives carry identical safety profiles even within the same chemical family. Traditional air-dried nail polishes were never affected, as they don’t rely on TPO at all.
How to Check Your Products
Bottles are unlikely to list the shortened name “TPO” — instead, check the ingredients list for the full term “trimethylbenzoyl diphenylphosphine oxide”. Anyone concerned about a product on sale can report it via the Citizens Advice Consumer Helpline, though how the new rules will be enforced in practice is not yet fully clear.
For now, the takeaway for regular manicure fans is simple: your gel nails aren’t going anywhere just yet — but the products behind them are quietly being phased out.
